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Maybe theoretically, but I think you might run into other limitations/clearance issues before getting there (like pulling the wheel into the wheel well liner).

@@FaRKle0079 agreed! But I run M2 front fenders and arch liners. The wheel sits too far back so I want to move it forward a few cm. I did some calculations and seems like shortening the caster arm by 1cm could move the wheel forward by over 2cm, which would make the 3+° of caster range plausible. I plan to install an xdrive caster arm, which is about 9mm shorter than the rwd one, and see where that gets me. If this works, much cheaper than either of the spl parts. 😎

I'm running the Ferodo DS3.12. I really like them. Thanks!

@@FaRKle0079 thanks! I am thinking about trying the 3.12s, have had 1.11s and really liked them, you don't happen to have had tried the 1.11s as well have you?

@@oficina_moomoo I haven't tried the 1.11 before. I hear the 3.12 has more initial bite versus having to go a bit deeper in the pedal with the 1.11.

Yes, the Turner one I ordered came with the eccentric lockout.

Congrats on the new ride! I still have the car as my daily and it's still going strong and smoothly. For your other question, you won't need to worry about software checking finding anything. The dealer software (ISTA) doesn't detect anything and that's the most thorough check routine for BMWs.

I don't recommend exposed spherical bearings for daily driver cars. You can usually buy boots for the bearings from the actual manufacturers of the spherical bearing parts and use those to protect them. Arms like these don't make any salient NVH, but may increase the white noise/road noise floor a bit. It's not very noticeable.

Check the video description 😉

There's zero noise from my wavetrac.

Loosen the bolt holding the arm to the subframe, then use a wrench to turn the eccentric nut on the spherical bearing to get your desired caster. Then tighten the subframe bolt back to spec.

BMW explicitly says in their procedures not to use grease for these calipers. Plus under track driving grease just dries up/gets burned up anyways and leaves a mess.

@@FaRKle0079 i was just curious from an engineering standpoint of why not using grease. I guess it’s just for the track driving as you said. Interesting

@@whizkid235 Grease can also gum things up if there's not enough clearance built in. The stock pads have a shim around them, and those surfaces on the sides that bracket the pad have a smoother finish, so grease might constrain movement instead of lubricating and allowing the pad to move like it usually does in other designs.

M340i has electronically controlled dampers that are now missing from your car, which is why you have the CEL. You need to either use terminators that trick the car into still seeing EDC dampers, or code the car so it doesn't expect to see EDC dampers anymore.

@@FaRKle0079 First of all thank you for taking the time to respond but i am a little confuse are you saying EDC is standard on m340i? Cause i did check the OEM suspension for any electrical connections and there is none so how does it work without any electrical connections?

@@Lonestreets hrm I thought USA M340i came with it by default. Maybe I mis-remembered. There are usually ride height sensors connected to some of the arms, make sure those are connected and in the correct orientation. In general it seems like something might not have been reconnected.

@@FaRKle0079 Yeah my car don’t have the adaptive suspension i will take it back to the shop to have them check everything first thing Monday.

If he was able to hold the strut shaft securely some other way, he might not have needed the 6mm hex counter hold.

@@SuspensionTruth Thanks Shaikh! I'm super excited for your setup. The Ohlins were massively better with flat ride and without really pushing and on 10 day old R-S4 tires I was 3sec off my best time. I just got some scales to take the corner weights for you. Will measure in the next week!

Thanks for the kind words!

Oh man! I stripped a subframe bolt etorx head once, and ended up using my dremel to cut the flange off of the bolt. With the flange removed there's no clamp load on the bolt anymore and I was able to unscrew the rest of it with a pair of vise grips. Has your subframe been removed before? If so I wonder if the previous place put loctite on the bolts. I've seen that before too... Best to replace those bolts if there's any sign of rounding on the etorx.

I could try cutting the flanges off on the middle bolts but the front ones are stuck up in a that tube. I don’t believe it would have been apart before. Bought with 30,000 miles just off of a lease. I’ve got creaking a noise and this was the last thing I could think of replacing. Replaced upper and lower control arms/thrust arms, Inner and outer tie rods, sway bar end links, struts and strut mounts, that weird plastic piece inside of the steering rack. Guess I’m living with it now.

🤣 I'll have to wear that shirt next time I'm at the track!

The unibody has indexing nubs that align the subframe when they're mated together, so no real issue realigning them. I've reused the subframe bolts, but you kind of have to watch that the heads of them aren't rounding off.

For the 5 speed transmission it doesn't need to be programmed.

It should. Sometimes the ball joints have enough resistance that you can just use an impact/normal deep socket and zip the nut off/on too without having to counter hold.

Hey when you got it repainted which is what I’m about to do does the body shop remove the double sided tape that comes with the piece or do they work around it?

Thanks for the insights!

I'm still very content with these. No issues at all.

Before adding a bar check your spring rates and see if they have pitch or flat ride. If it's pitch, you'll need a rear sway bar in conjunction with the front or you'll have really bad understeer.

@@FaRKle0079 228.4 lbs/in F and 628 Lbs/in R springs... I dont know if you can determine from that. The front springs are also progressive.

Yup, it allows you to adjust height just like any of the coilover kits you might buy. The thing you'll want to watch for when lowering your rear is having enough free damper travel. The bump stop on the damper should prevent it from bottoming out and damaging it, but you'll have a harsh ride if riding the bump stops.

ok cool thank! Can you also check or change your links, they didn’t worked and I’m very interested in finding them. And last question, if I already have some H&R lowering sport spring on bmw F30 Xdrive can I keep thoses and simply add Adjustable Perch on top?

The Track Plates sound like a bucket of bolts rattling around in your engine bay. I have the latest ones and am rebuilding them with the Street centre pieces as I can't stand the track plates on the road. Literally drove the car for 1 minute with them and absolutely hated them.

Even with these you'll get a bit more road noise, but it's the general "noise floor" and background/white noise instead of very salient tones that stand out and grab your attention. I'm happy with them in my daily driver.

@@idontwantafrickinhandle totally agree with you, while the street versions are my go-to recommendation, the spherical bearing/track versions I absolutely don't recommend. There are better alternatives out there (Vorshlag) if going spherical bearing.

@@FaRKle0079 So these are what you are always running now? I thought the Ground Control options were your favorite. I'm looking for an option for autocross that won't be terrible on the road.

@@JakeisLive I've been running Millway Street plates on my daily driver F31 328d for about 4yrs now. My M2 is running Vorshlag camber plates. I can't in good conscience recommend Ground Control camber plates due to how fast their spherical bearings wear, some questionable QC, and grumpy after sales support.

@@zqy6722 since I sent them a complete donor pumpkin they included the bolts it came with when sent back. You'll want to have some rtv/gasket maker for reassembly of the cover. I just had VT Motorworks do all that since they were handling the install anyways.